Coming and Going

I arrived in Nairobi about a week ago and getting restless to be on the road again. I admit, exploring city life is as fascinating as small town life. I invited myself to the YMCA school in Kibera, the second largest "unstructured settlement" in the world (or so I am told). Another word for "unstructured settlement" is slum, which you may be more familiar with. There are a couple of women staying here at the YMCA who told me about the research they are doing in Kibera and how it "works". They tell me that 95% of the structures, made from metal sheets and other cheap materials, are rented. The owners? Recent and past political leaders, wealthy Kenyans, and entrepreneurial citizens who have gotten rich from the poor. The rent is high (about $25 a month) and in addition, one has to pay for electricity and security. Going to the toilet is a seperate charge since there is only one latrine for every 100 people. It may not seem like a lot of money to an American, but to a poor Kenyan who typically survives on $1 - $2 a day, it is a lot, especially since one person is probably supporting many others. I haven't spent much time in Kibera, but met a few people who live there who are happy to show me a bit of their life. I'll learn a bit of Sheng, the street language of Kibera, and teach you a few words! I've also spent a lot of time in Eastleigh, the home of many Somali and Oromo refugees. It reminds me of Merkato in Addis Ababa and one of the only places in Kenya to get good, cheap, Ethiopian injera and coffee. I didn't realize how much I missed Ethiopian food until I took that first bite if tibs, grilled meat with barbare, hot chili powder.