Biking For Books: Biking for Books, Week One

We've been on the road for a week but with almost no access to internet. I'll give you a quick rundown of the past week. Toto and I launched Biking for Books 2012 with little fanfare (only one adoring fan) from the YMCA in Nairobi. Once through the congestion of the city, we climbed straight up until we reached the outskirts the town of Limuru, where I fell and broke two front teeth on the way to Uganda back in 2009. We passed lime green tea fields and arrived in the drizzle. Toto's bike broke down and as he headed by bus back to Nairobi, I was busy meeting local politicians who whisked me away the next morning to the site of a new maternity hospital. The nurses educated me on the difficulties women have in Kenya when they are pregnant or ready to give birth due to lack of good roads, transportation, and lack of facilities close by. Building this 3 million shilling maternity wing was not just a political move by Councellor Phillip to get votes, it was a necessity to reduce maternal deaths.

After Limuru we left Kikuyu tribal lands and entered Masaii territory where we would travel for several days. The bright and colorful kitenges and shukas lent beauty everywhere we turned. Although more and more Masaii children are attending school these days, they are one of a few tribes in Kenya who live traditionally. The land was scrubby and flat, filled with herds of cows, sheep, and goats, the currency of the tribe. One night I gave away my daughter in marriage (just kidding Ariella) for a promise of 200 goats, 70 cows, and 50 acres of land. When I asked Manyati (prospective husband) what Ariella would do when she came to Suswa he told me she would tend to the animals. However, once I reported that she was too educated to be a shepherd, he told me he would build a school names Kim's Preparatory School and Ariella could run the place.

The next memorable moment took place in a small trading center a days ride from Suswa. Toto and I were starting to like these small towns because people were friendly and they were more like bed and breakfasts than the brothels of the cities we were used to. We were shown the rooms, told the price ($4.50) and the place to bathe. After a few minutes, however, we were told that the rooms had been booked and paid for and we had to leave. "Wanashukiwa" (They are suspected....). Thinking that it was because I offered some small sweets to the children was the problem, we left. We were taken to another mom and pop place and the same routine happened. We were settling in, Toito was bathing when Mama Judy received a phone call. She immediately informed us that the rooms were booked and we had to leave. Toto thought I was joking, so he took his time whereas I left in a huff and waited for him by the road. We thought it was because of me, a mzungu (white person), who they had probably never had stay in their humble hotels. Later, we wondered if teh problem was actually Toto, who has been accused of being a Rastafarian and a member of an Al Shabab sleeper cell. Some of the locals told us that Totos beard and dark skin were looked upon with suspician, especially after recent terrorist incidents in Northeast Kenya in which two churches of worshippers were bombed and 17 killed. One old woman actually asked Toito if he had "one of those green explosives" in his bike bag.

Last night we stayed in Kisii, a small city filled with boda bodas (motorcycle drivers), street boys sniffing glue, and sleazy hotels. We stayed at one of those for the typical $3.00 a room we always pay. Aside from what goes on in these places, we always meet friendly people who cheer us up and give us the local news and perspectives.