Island Life

 All life centers around Lake Victoria on Mfangano Island. It is where everyone bathes, swims, washes dishes, and scrubs clothes. The nam (luo for lake)is where the the cows, sheep, and goats go when they are thirsty and the place to islanders collect drinking water. It is where much of the island's inhabitants make a living through fishing. Men and women have different spots they go to along the lake. These designated places are respected by all through social customs and taboos and are only separated by a few trees. If the children are sent to wash the family dishes or clothes, they wash on the woman's side, even if they are boys, because washing dishes is women's work. Even at a young age, they carry the large plastic basins on their heads, overflowing with black bottomed pans and plastic bowls. Rather than haul water up the hill to bathe (which no one does), the locals wash their bodies and hair in the lake. At first I was reluctant to do this. My training to keep soap out of the fresh water was ingrained, but I too, succumbed to local tradition. Toto and I swam at least twice a day, sometimes three times, because we knew it was our last chance to enjoy the warm, clear waters of Lake Victoria.

According to the folks at Ekialo Kiona, Lake Victoria is over-fished, since apparently the Kenyan government does not regulate the fishing industry. Years back, Nile Perch was introduced into the Lake. They are a huge fish, growing up to 70 pounds, the weight of a ten year old!. They are also carniverous and eat the small fish in the lake. Nile Perch are sold mainly to processing companies where they are made into fish sticks for MacDonalds and the like. Who makes money? Mostly the processing companies. The fishermen are paid a small price for their effort.Think about that the next time you eat at MacDonalds.

Photos in order:

The launch we took to Mfangano Island
Jacob's extended family next to his house
Toto on the boat
Donated bicycles from Bicycles for Humanity (Colorado based) at Ekialo Kiona